If you want to get the job done right, get a borescope so you can look down the barrel and actually see what's going on. Once upon a time, this involved costs significant cash. Now there are most likely half a lots out there that are eminently economical. Without a borescope, you're working blind.
It is 2 separate jobs. You get to deal with powder fouling. Second, you need to get rid of copper fouling. Just then are you done. There are all sorts of quality gun-cleaning products out there. Here is a list of what I use. J Dewey nylon-coated cleaning rods. They can be found in.
Take your spot rod, and put three solvent patches up the bore. When it does, follow with a dry spot.
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(Do not get J-B or oil or anything else on the lens of your scope. If you see no copper, or simply a faint wash of copper here and there, you're done.
If you don't have a borescope, run a solvent repair the bore and let it sit, muzzle a little down, for a number of hours. Run another solvent spot through, and if it comes out clean, you're done, but if it has green or blue spots, back to the J-B.
As a guideline, the more you invest on a barrel the smoother it will be and the less it will nasty. Every barrel fouls to one degree or another. I've had one or two cases where a barrel suddenly started to group as I reached the end of the process, however I've had far more break-ins that made no difference at all.
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They work, in some cases, however if you forget and leave the things in your bore for more than 15 minutes, they will pit your bore however good, and since I'm at the age where I forget things, I'm unwilling to take the chance. Also, they're hell on stock finishes. With a bolt-action, go easy on the Break-Free.
Take a cue from the military, whose lives depend on their guns going bang. They want them immaculate. And spotless is an excellent way to go.
The steps to effectively clean your rifle depend on whether you are doing a field removing or total disassembly. We'll cover standard field stripping in this post. Due to the variety of rifles, complete disassembly of the firearm aren't within the scope of this article. This is the most important action in the whole cleaning procedure.
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, and eliminate any loose particles that may be discovered within the action, bolt, receiver, frame and chamber.
One typical misconception is that more is much better when it pertains to lubrication of your firearm. You want to effectively lube where needed, however too much can result in excessive residues, which can cause malfunctions and managing problems (slippery). Lubing cloths are an excellent tool due to the fact that they help manage the quantity of oil/lubrication being used in any offered location of your gun.
Soak a couple patches in this solvent and run them down the barrel. Permit it to sit, and keep in mind that eliminating copper can take a while.
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If the patch comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Simply let it sit again, and repeat. If the spot comes out stained blue, you still have copper in the barrel. Just let it sit once again and repeat. Expense Buckley Note: There's a great deal of talk about how these copper solvents can harm your bore.
What you don't want is to let any ammonia solvent dry in there. When you're satisfied that the copper is gone, run a couple of dry spots down the bore, followed by a couple of patches that have been damp with a regular cleansing solvent. Run three or 4 dry spots down the bore to eliminate any staying solvent.